Fyvie Castle

Photographic survey of the exterior and interior of Fyvie Castle, Aberdeenshire, in September 1960.

Photographic survey by the Scottish National Buildings Record in September 1960.

On first approaching Fyvie, the modem visitor may initially be slightly disappointed, arriving as he does in the angle of two lofty wings and confronted with an evidently late, single-storey vestibule, with, to one side,a towering, keep-like structure complete with late Victorian heraldic frontispiece. The composition is unbalanced and the visitor confused.

In understanding Fyvie, the key insight is that it began life as a 13th century quadrangular castle of enclosure, a great square of c 50m enclosed by a massive curtain wall 2.5m thick with projecting towers at the corners. Therefore, the visitor standing before William Gordon's vestibule is already in the very centre of the ancient structure, having passed over the now levelled north and east walls.

This becomes clearer on the prospect of the famolls south front or 'show facade'. While the upper work on the 50m long front represents one of the finest flowerings of Scottish baronial architecture, the basic structure of projecting angle towers, wing walls and central gatehouse tower with drums is wholly medieval in conception.

Briefly, the early curtain wall, now embedded in the south and west fronts, may have been built in the early 13th century when Fyvie was the caput of the Thanage of Formartine. It remained in royal hands until 1380; 10 years later it passed to Sir Henry Preston who heightened the walls and rebuilt the corner towers. The castle was further enlarged between 1440 and 1500 by the Meldrums, who created the palace-like layout of chambers on the first floor of the west wing (the hall, outer chamber, and inner chamber, now the drawing-room, small drawing-room and charter room). In 1596 the castle was sold to Alexander Seton, first earl of Dunfermline and chancellor of Scotland. He was probably responsible for the elaborate upper works. He certainly created the noble staircase, 4m wide, leading to the main apartments; modelled on the staircase at Chaumont, Fyvie's stair is one of the most impressive of any date in Scotland. His grandson, the fourth earl, around 1686, inserted the door and dramatic red ashlar centrepiece on the south front.

Much was to change as a result of the Jacobite sympathies of the fourth earl. Exiled, his estates were conflscated and passed into Gordon hands. From 1770 to 1840 General William Gordon and his son carried out sweeping changes, the most dramatic being the demolition of the north and east wings, the building of the new vestibule and the Gordon Tower. This last, at the north end of the west wing, was built to provide more spacious chambers such as a ballroom; it blends remarkably well with the earlier work. The policies were also radically improved.

In 1889 the castle was purchased by Alexander Forbes-Leith, a local man who had amassed a fortune in America. With the Gordon alterations and the Forbes-Leith refurbishment, which included the Leith Tower, the original interior work was mostly removed. There is good late 16th century woodwork in the Charter Room and in the small chamber at the head of the great stairs. Otherwise, interest in the interior focuses on the fine paintings (including more than 12 outstanding Raeburns) and furniture which offer a diverting history of taste; all excellently presented by the Trust.

The influence of the later lairds of Fyvie is seen vividly in the parish kirk, described in the introduction to the next chapter.

Information from ‘Exploring Scotland’s Heritage: Grampian’, (1986).

On first approaching Fyvie, the modern visitor may initially be slightly disappointed, arriving as he does in the angle of two lofty wings and confronted with an evidently late, single-storey vestibule, with, to one side, a towering, keep-like structure complete with late Victorian heraldic frontispiece. The composition is unbalanced and the visitor confused.

In understanding Fyvie, the key insight is that it began life as a 13th-century quadrangular castle of enclosure, a great square of c 50m enclosed by a massive curtain wall 2.5m thick with projecting rowers at the corners. Therefore, the visitor standing before William Gordon's vestibule is already in the very centre of the ancient structure, having passed over the now levelled north and east walls.

This becomes clearer on the prospect of the famous south front or 'show facade'. While the upper work on the 50m long front represents one of the finest flowerings of Scottish baronial architecture, the basic structure of projecting angle towers, wing walls and central gatehouse tower with drums is wholly medieval in conception.

Briefly, the early curtain wall, now embedded in the south and west fronts, may have been built in the early 13th century when Fyvie was the caput of the Thanage of Formartine. It remained in royal hands until 1380; 10 years later it passed to Sir Henry Preston who heightened the walls and rebuilt the corner towers. The castle was further enlarged between 1440 and 1500 by the Meldrums, who created the palace-like layout of chambers on the first floor of the west wing (the hall, outer chamber, and inner chamber, now the drawing-room, small drawing-room and charter room). In 1596 the castle was sold to Alexander Seton, first earl of Dunfermline and Chancellor of Scotland. He was probably responsible fo r the elaborate upper works. He certainly created the noble staircase, 4m wide, leading to the main apartments; modelled on the staircase at Chaumont, Fyvie's stair is one of the most impressive of any date in Scotland. His grandson, the fourth earl, around 1686, inserted the door and dramatic red ashlar centrepiece on the south front.

Much was to change as a result of the Jacobite sympathies of the fourth earl. Exiled, his estates were confiscated and passed into Gordon hands. From 1770 to 1840 General William Gordon and his son carried out sweeping changes, the most dramatic being the demolition of the north and east wings, the building of the new vestibule and the Gordon Tower. This last, at the north end of the west wing, was built to provide more spacious chambers such as a ballroom; it blends remarkably well with the earlier work. The policies were also radically improved.

In 1889 the castle was purchased by Alexander Forbes-Leith, a local man who had amassed a fortune in America. With the Gordon alterations and the Forbes-Leith refurbishment, which included the Leith Tower, oriel-bedecked in homage to Huntly (no. 27), the original interior work was mostly removed. There is good late 16th century woodwork in the Charter Room and in the small chamber at the head of the great stairs. Otherwise, interest in the interior focuses on the fine paintings (including more than 12 outstanding Raeburns) and furniture which offer a diverting history of taste; all excellently presented by the Trust.

The influence of the later lairds of Fyvie is seen vividly in the parish kirk, described in the introduction to the next chapter.

Information from ‘Exploring Scotland’s Heritage: Aberdeen and North-East Scotland’, (1996).

NJ 76390 39306 The NTS environs project aims to gain a better understanding of the potential survival of historic garden features and potential structural features to help inform future management plans. A resistance survey was undertaken at 0.5 x 0.5m intervals over a c1.25ha area to the S, E and W of the castle to map potential garden features and structural remains in the area defined by the circuit of the existing drive.

The resistance survey, undertaken 29 August–2 September 2010, was extremely successful and located numerous anomalies. To the SW of the castle numerous linear responses aligned N–S and E–W were detected. These consisted of high and low resistance anomalies suggesting a series of possible walls/paths and ditches/robber trenches/beds that may indicate the remains of an earlier formal garden. Anomalies suggestive of an earlier bowling green, shown on an estate plan of 1822, have also been detected although

interpretation is cautious given subsequent construction and landscaping. The Barras yard, which also appears on the 1822 estate plan, is clearly visible in the data. Its W and S limits are very well defined and the generally uniform nature of the responses in the yard suggests a general lack of disturbance or deep topsoil. The survey results to the SE of the castle were more confused. While numerous anomalies were detected, including suggestions of possible structural remains, the data suggests that there may have been more

extensive landscaping in this area. An excavation by Cameron Archaeology confirmed many features suggested by the resistance survey, including boundaries of the former garden, the possible chapel and other structural remains.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden – Rose Geophysical Consultants

NJ 76393 39277 Following a resistance survey by Rose Geophysical Consultants, five trenches were excavated on the lawn of Fyvie Castle, to assess the survival of archaeological features in the immediate environs of the castle. This excavation was undertaken in conjunction with the NTS on 20–28 September 2010.

Fyvie Castle dates to at least the early 13th century. Alexander Seton (Lord Fyvie and 1st Earl of Dunfermline)

acquired the estate in 1596 and proceeded to transform Fyvie Castle into an impressive Renaissance palace. Seton created elaborate garden settings for his other great houses, and it is probable that he did the same at Fyvie. Until now the only evidence for Fyvie’s late 16th to early 17th-century gardens has been an early 19th-century estate plan which shows the location of the ‘old garden’ and an 18th-century sketch by Charles Cordiner in which part of the garden wall can be seen.

The excavation found traces of this perimeter wall and evidence for long-term cultivation within the enclosed

area. The excavation also uncovered a cobbled floor, robber trenches and demolition material which are probably the remains of an external chapel only seen on the Cordiner sketch. This chapel may have been built during the Seton period. The edge of the ‘Barras Green’ enclosure, part of which is still visible as an earthwork, was explored and a narrow wall foundation found indicating that a wall had surrounded this area, which latterly had a metalled surface.

Other features uncovered were a dry stone wall and the base for a clamp kiln with associated daub. Finds included a small number of sherds of prehistoric, medieval and post-medieval pottery, including Chinese porcelain and early post-medieval tin-glazed wares. Building materials included roof slates, floor tiles and sandstone.

Archive: RCAHMS and The National Trust for Scotland

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Alison Cameron – Cameron Archaeology

NJ 76393 39277 Following a successful evaluation in 2010 (DES 2010, 21) six trenches were excavated, 4–10 July 2011, to determine the extent of the possible chapel building and to look at the inner garden. The foundations of a small stone building measuring c3.66m E–W and 10.98m N–S were recorded. The floor consisted of water washed cobbles, and a line of postholes indicated that a wooden structure had been positioned along the inside of the W wall. Finds from the building include sandstone fragments, slates, iron nails, window glass and clay pipes consistent with an early 17th-century date. The heel of a clay pipe with a maker’s mark is attributed to Reijnier Jansz Blom who was working in Gouda c1650–1670. The building is too small and positioned too close to the castle for an agricultural building, and possible interpretations include a summerhouse and a private chapel. The building had been sited within an inner garden surrounded by a substantial sandstone wall. Within this garden one trench revealed a series of turf beds, pink sandstone and grey cobbled surfaces, which together would have created the range of colours and textures required in gardens of this period. Parallels may be drawn with Gordon's view of Heriot's Hospital drawn in the mid-17th century.

Archive: RCAHMS and the National Trust for Scotland

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Cameron Archaeology 2011

Cultural Heritage assessment for the proposed Greeness wind farm development. The assessment forms part of an Environmental Statement. The Cultural Heritage assessment identifies all historic environment features within the development area (through desk-based assessment and field survey), and key external receptors up to 10km from the proposed development. An assessment of the direct and indirect impacts of the development on these features is included.

Farmstead depicted as roofed on First Edition Ordnance Survey, now in ruins. No associated remains were discovered within the area.

Information from OASIS ID: cfaarcha1-207671 (H Tweedie) 2011

NJ 76390 39306 A geophysical survey was carried out 8–12 April 2012 close to Fyvie Castle. As the full extent of the garden features detected in an earlier survey appear to extend to the S, the survey was extended in this area. The resistance survey successfully located the southern extent of the former formal gardens, together with internal garden features. A well defined curvilinear low resistance anomaly was detected through the centre of the survey area. This was thought to indicate the line of a former field boundary or hedge. However, subsequent excavations disproved this theory (see entry below). A number of linear trends were located elsewhere in the survey area, most of which appear to be agricultural in origin, including suggestions of early rig and furrow. A GPR survey was undertaken in the areas surrounding the castle buildings. The strongest and most coherent anomalies are due to utilities and drains. Several anomalies of potential archaeological significance were located. These were focused in the courtyard and to the S of the castle. Within the courtyard two linear zones, c3–4m wide, were detected in the N and E of the survey block. These suggest the remains of possible N and E wings/curtain walls.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden (Rose Geophysical Consultants) 2012

Geophysical survey was carried out 8–12 April 2012 close to Fyvie Castle. A GPR survey was undertaken in the areas surrounding the castle buildings. The strongest and most coherent anomalies are due to utilities and drains. Several anomalies of potential archaeological significance were located. These were focused in the courtyard and to the S of the castle. Within the courtyard two linear zones, c3–4m wide, were detected in the N and E of the survey block. These suggest the remains of possible N and E wings/curtain walls.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden (Rose Geophysical Consultants) 2012

NJ 76393 39277 Following successful evaluations in 2010 and 2011 (DES 2010, 21 and DES 2011, 19) five trenches were excavated, 16–27 April 2012, to evaluate an area of the S lawn, prior to its possible use for marquees. The area is occupied by the S end of Seton's 16th-century gardens and the robber trenches for the red sandstone boundary wall were identified and sampled. Some had been completely robbed whilst others still had some stone foundations in situ. The linear stone features recorded in the garden probably represented borders between planting areas, but further excavation would be required to create a plan of these features.

The excavation of a linear anomaly on the resistivity plot (see entry above) revealed a line of large postholes supporting posts at least 0.8m in diameter, which may reflect the presence of fortifications. The pottery from one posthole indicates a 13th- or early 14th-century date. There are several royal connections with Fyvie during this period. William the Lion was here with the high officers of his court in 1211 or 1214, Alexander II granted a charter from here on 22 February 1222 and Edward I visited 'Fyuin Chastel' on 21 July 1296. These fortifications may have been constructed as part of the defence of the castle associated with one of these visits.

Archive: NTS and RCAHMS

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Alison Cameron, Cameron Archaeology and Shannon Fraser, The National Trust for Scotland 2012

NJ 7636 3928 A watching brief was carried out 23–24 January 2012 during the excavation of six trenches. The c1–1.5m square and 1m deep trenches were required for work associated with improvements to lightning conductors. Two possible features were recorded, but all the soil removed had been disturbed in the recent past and no significant remains were disturbed.

Archive: NTS and RCAHMS

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Alison Cameron (Cameron Archaeology) 2012 . OASIS ID: camerona1-125587

NJ 76390 39306 A geophysical survey was carried out, 18–22 November 2012, to the S and E of the area that was surveyed and revealed a wealth of anomalies associated with the former formal gardens in April 2012 (DES 2012, 19). The surveys undertaken identified several anomalies of possible archaeological interest. The resistance survey detected the continuation of several features detected in the previous survey to the N. Although a complex data set, the anomalies appear to be associated with the earlier approach to the castle. In addition, anomalies in the far S of the survey area may be associated with settlement beyond the castle. However, further survey is required to place these anomalies in a wider context. The gradiometer data is relatively noisy due to buried services, adjacent fences and the nature of the geology of the area. However, several anomalies of possible interest have been located which tie in with the resistance data.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden, Rose Geophysical Consultants, 2013

(Source: DES)

NJ 76390 39306 Magnetometry survey.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden, Rose Geophysical Consultants, 2013

(Source: DES)

NJ 76390 39306 Resistivity survey.

Archive: Rose Geophysical Consultants

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Susan Ovenden, Rose Geophysical Consultants, 2013

(Source: DES)

NJ 7636 3928 A watching brief was carried out, 27 September – 28 October 2013, during the dismantling and repair of a wall between the Walled Garden and Old Home Farm at Fyvie Castle. The structure of the wall was recorded, but no early stonework or earlier features were noted.

Archive: RCAHMS

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Alison Cameron – Cameron Archaeology

(Source: DES)

The uplifting of floorboards in a ground floor room in the W range of the castle afforded an opportunity to record an earlier flagstone floor. One end of a floorboard was stamped 'HAUGAN' which would indicate that it was imported from Norway at a date, as yet, unknown but probably 19th century.

Infomration from Hilary and Charles Murray (Murray Archaeological Services) 17 March 2014. OASIS ID: mas1-207219

NJ 76390 39306 The uplifting of floorboards in a ground floor room in the W range of the castle afforded an opportunity to record an earlier flagstone floor. One end of a floorboard was stamped ‘HAUGAN’ which would indicate that it was imported from Norway at a date, as yet, unknown, but probably 19th century. This work was undertaken on 17 March 2014.

Archive: The National Trust for Scotland (intended). Report and photographs: Aberdeenshire SMR and the National Trust for Scotland

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

HK Murray and JC Murray – Murray Archaeological Services Ltd

(Source: DES)

NJ 76390 39300 A watching brief was undertaken during works to replace drainage around the S frontage of Fyvie Castle in the area where, it is argued, there had been a formal 16th-/17th-century garden. The new drains followed the lines of the existing drains and no archaeological finds o r f eatures w ere e vident. T he w ork was carried out from 1–3 February 2022.

Archive: NRHE and Aberdeenshire HER Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Hilary and Charlie Murray – Murray Archaeological Services

(Source DES Volume 23)

NJ 76390 39306 A historic building recording was completed of the external sculptures at Fyvie Castle as part of an ongoing programme of conservation work. A pilot photogrammetric survey was undertaken of twelve of the sculptures, including turrets, panels, and window dormers. Photographs were also taken of the current state of the rest of the sculptures.

As part of this work, a review of existing documentation for the sculptures was undertaken and collated into a gazetteer as a working document to inform future interpretation and conservation works. This has provided a historical narrative of the sculptures relating to the various families at Fyvie and brought together the existing interpretation of the various figures. Much of the works originate with Alexander Seton’s alterations to the castle from 1596, including the window dormers and the sculptural panels. The scheme was continued by the later owners of the castle, with the later panels depicting representative symbols from the family crests of each significant family: Seton, Drummond, Meldrum, Gordon, Forbes and Leith. There are few comparisons to the Fyvie turret finials, which date from Alexander Seton’s work in the late 16th century. Further finials were added by Gordon and the four bear finials by Forbes-Leith in the 19th century. Three of the sculptural panels have been re-sited and are thought to reflect Alexander Seton’s personal principles and may have originally been located within an inner garden at Fyvie.

Further research is required to set the sculptures more firmly

within their historic context and outline their significance, which was outwith the scope of the current report. Recommendations for further work are contained within the gazetteer. A separate document will outline all recommendations for further work, both on the carved stonework and on the overall historic building recording of the castle.

Archive: NRHE (intended)

Funder: The National Trust for Scotland

Elizabeth Jones – Addyman Archaeology

(Source DES Volume 23)