Field Visit
Date 14 May 1911
Event ID 1117020
Category Recording
Type Field Visit
Permalink http://canmore.org.uk/event/1117020
St Ninian's Cave.
This cave is situated on the shore some 2 ½ m. WNW. of Burrow Head, at a point about ½ m.to the SS W. of Physgill House. The general aspect of the cliff and shore is westerly, but the cave opens to the S. in an angle formed by the projecting cliff with the shingly beach which stretches across the mouth of Physgill glen, and is situated about 25' above high-water mark. The cave is a fissure in the rocks, broadest at the mouth, and its walls slope inwards and upwards, meeting at an acute angle both at the end and the roof. Its dimensions are approximately 25' in length, 10' to 15' in height, and 8' to 10' in breadth at the mouth. Local tradition has for long associated the cave with St Ninian, whose devotional retreat it is said to have been, and the discovery of various crosses incised on the rocks and on stones found in the cave is consistent with the history assigned to it. The first discovery of Christian work in the cave was made in 1871, on the occasion of a visit of Dean Stanley, when an incised cross was observed on the rock at the W. side of the entrance (A on the plan after mentioned). A great part of the cave roof had fallen in, and in 1883 and 1884 the debris was removed under the auspices of the Ayr and Galloway Archaeological Association. The further discovery was then made of similar crosses (figs. 5 and 6) on the walls adjacent to that previously observed, and of two stones bearing incised crosses. One of these (fig. 7) shows a small equal-armed cross with the arms expanding to their terminations, set on a short' shaft and surmounted by an exactly similar cross, defective owing to a fracture of the slab: the second (fig. 8) is a coffin-shaped slab, 2' 1" in length by 9 ½' in greatest breadth: at the upper end of it is carved within a circle an equal armed cross with round hollow angles at the intersections and arms expanding to their terminations, set immediately above a cross-head of similar form incised and resting on a shaft. Both crosses have small circular depressions in the centre.
A plan (fig. 9) of the cave, which was made at the time of its exploration, is here reproduced, and referred to by letters in the following description:- Across the mouth of the cave stretched a wall (GG) of dry-stone masonry 28" thick, from which, towards one end, four steps of a stair (H) descended to the floor level of the interior, 3' below the level of the original threshold at the top of the wall. On the lowest step were incised three encircled equal-armed crosses with the arms expanding to the circumference of the circles: one has parabolic curves at the inter sections and a small incised cross in the centre; the other two have oval spaces at the inter sections and a small depression in the centre; while one rests upon a short shaft slightly concave at each side. The floor of the cave was completely paved with flags throughout its entire length except at a place (I.I.I.) where there was a space 6' X 3' to 4 ½ ' unpaved, but floored with hard-beaten earth, and in one corner (K) behind the wall, where there was an open depression for the escape of water. The pavement bore the marks of fire, and was covered with wood-ashes, bones, and shells. At L, carved on the rock 3' above the pavement, is a faintly incised cross with the arms expanding outwards, and a stem slightly longer than the upper arm. Upon a flagstone beneath it was a rudely cut inscription on which the letters SANCT / NI-P remain. Outside the wall, at a depth of 3', there was found at M a stone (fig. 10) on which was incised a circle containing an equal-armed cross with expanding arms and incised circles at the intersections, each with a small hollow in the centre. At O another stone (fig. 11), broken and defective, contained incised within a double circle four encircled crosses, of which the arms slightly expanded at their terminations. At P, 6' below the surface, human remains were discovered. Built into the wall two further cross-incised fragments were found, thus indicating the secondary character of the structure. Subsequent examination led to the discovery on the wall at Q of a small, incised, equal-armed cross (fig. 12) with the arms crossed at their terminations. A well-made drain was also traced outside the wall from C to D, and close to the upper end of it (at E) was found a large water – worn boulder in which was cut a circular basin, 7" in width and 5" in depth the tool marks of the pointed instrument with which it was cut being plainly visible. A small rill which fell over the mouth of the cave descended straight into this basin, while the overflow was carried away by the drain. On the occasion of the further excavation in 1886, in the debris outside the cave was found a free standing-cross of sand- stone (fig. 13), broken at the foot, 2' 6" in length, 1’ in width, and 3" in thickness, sculptured in relief on one face thus :-On the head a central raised boss, surrounded by irregular interlaced work, double beaded, and forming an equal-armed cross. with expanding arms and circular hollows, each containing a boss at the intersections. On the shaft interlaced work formed from a four-cord plait, double-beaded, with, at the bottom, the remains of an inscription in Anglian runes, which was read by Professor Stephens as the equivalent of wrote, i.e. wrought, worked, made. This stone is illustrated and described in The Early Christian Monuments of Scotland and in The Old Northern Runic Monuments of Scandinavia and England, quoted below.
An iron railing (with lockfast gate) has been erected by the proprietor across the mouth of the cave for protection, and the cave (with its contents) is now under the care of H.M. Office of Works.
See Antiquaries, xvii. p. 317 (illus.); ibid., xix. p. 82 (plan and illus.); ibid., xxi. p. 137 (illus.); Ayr and Gall. Arch. Coll., v. p. i. (plan and illus.); ibid., vi. p. 34 (illus); Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii. pp. 487 and 502 (illus.); The Old Northern Runic Monuments of Scandinavia and England, iv. p. 38; Hist. Dumfries and Gall., p. 26.
Visited 14th May 1911.
