Lost Inverlael

NH 18597 85722–NH 21763 84360 The first phases of works for Ullapool Museum’s community project “Lost Inverlael: A’ Lorg Baile Bhlair” were undertaken in 2021. This initially comprised a rapid walkover survey led by Highland Archaeology Services with members of the local community, including pupils from Ullapool High School, at Inverlael Township and shielings between 24 May and 1 June 2021. Although known through documentary sources and mapping, the site located at the S end of Loch Broom was previously unrecorded. This basic survey has plotted the location of 86 structures, 61 walls, six kilns and 63 clearance cairns.

The largest group of features comprised the main settlement located on the edge of agricultural and forestry ground on the N and S sides of the river Lael, to the E of the modern A835. The remains on the N side of the river are well preserved, with several courses of stonework surviving for most of the buildings. Several enclosures of various sizes are also visible, including three distinctive bullet- shaped enclosures. There are also short terraces of two and three buildings, some with apparently associated long plots or small enclosures. A mill building and lade was discovered on the S side of the river, as well as a large kiln with possibly associated track linking it to the mill building. Nearby bridge footings show where these structures were linked to the main part of the settlement.

Also by the river is the Mausoleum of Colin Mackenzie of Coul,

which is situated on a distinctive mound, which may be a moot hill or prehistoric cairn. Another notably large cairn may also be prehistoric in origin. A small area of settlement on the S side of the river is less well preserved, and may represent an earlier settlement phase. Several shieling structures and a possible smithing area were recorded in upland areas of the glen. Further structures were noticed but not recorded, and further survey in this area would be beneficial. A still site was identified, which appears to retain several features and may have been in sporadic use over many decades following the abandonment of the shieling buildings.

An excavation was undertaken of two building remains on the S side of the river at NH 1833 8520. The excavation provided training and engagement opportunities for members of the local and wider community and pupils of Ullapool High School, but also aimed to attain dating and occupation evidence for structures in this part of the site. Structure A66 was revealed in three quadrants of the excavated area. The wall footings were found to be of tumbled stonework with larger stones forming each face and smaller stones in the core. A possible central division was identified. Evidence of burning was identified and sampled for analysis. A single slot trench was opened over the centre of building A68. It was found not to have a central division, despite its large size. The walls were found to be of similar construction to A66 and heavily tumbled. Both sites were planned before backfilling. Artefacts appear to relate to the abandonment of the structures, with glass, pottery and even the remains of a leather shoe found within wall tumble. Further analysis will be recommended in the Data Structure Report. Excavations for other parts of the site are planned for 2022.

Archive: NRHE and Highland HER (intended)

Funder: Historic Environment Scotland

Lynne McKeggie and Lachlan McKeggie – Highland Archaeology Services

(Source: DES Vol 22)

NH 18828 85432 Two targeted excavations were undertaken by members of the local community at Inverlael Township between 19–24 April 2022 and 10–15 May 2022. A previous community excavation took place on the site in 2021 (DES Volume 22, 108).

Although known through documentary sources, the site located at the S end of Loch Broom was, until 2021, entirely un-excavated. The excavations form part of a wider project, which has included a walkover survey and will include a post-excavation research design (PERD). The aim is to attain dating and occupation evidence for structures on the S and N side of the River Lael. The 2022 excavations comprised five trenches, each targeting different structures identified during the walkover survey.

Trench 1 comprised a slot across a building, thought to be the mill, and a mill lade. This trench contained the most important remains recovered from the site with a clear indication of the mill lade as well as evidence of a well-built structure. However, this structure was more than 8m from the lade with a very rough area of stones in between, and no sign of a wheelhouse. Several finds apparently dating to the late 17th or early 18th century were recovered including a coin from 1693. Lead shot recovered from this trench is particularly intriguing as at least five pieces were recovered from a small area close to a hearth, implying there may have been some small-scale manufacturing.

Trench 2 in contrast uncovered a kiln in a poor state of preservation that has been severely damaged since it went out of use. While its purpose was confirmed though its form and the position of the little in situ stonework found, the damage done by trees made the preservation of useful material unlikely. Excavation has also revealed a probably clean last firing. Its sheer size still makes this an important feature and considered in conjunction with the lade close by tells a convincing story of a thriving agricultural community in the area.

Trench 5, opened up over the largest structure in the area (c16 x 5.5m), was fairly sterile within – producing no floor layer and an inconclusive result on the possible doorway investigated in the SE wall. The structure was found to be of a sturdy construction with large stones forming well-made walls. It seems likely that any floor there may have been was removed as the building was abandoned as no nails from a wooden floor, flagstones or cobbles were noted, whilst the remaining surface was unusually uneven and sterile. Although the structure itself was fairly barren, the three contexts just outside of the walls to the NW contained a disproportionately large number of finds. In total over 164 items from 20 locations. The large pieces of ceramic – including what may be several parts of the same distinctive scalloped edged vessel – also imply this was relatively undisturbed. This together with the nature of the soil (dark) suggest this was an area of midden, perhaps at the edge of a kitchen garden or kale yard.

The structure encountered in Trench 6 was very different f rom the one in Trench 5. Primarily it was much smaller (c6 x 5m) and had suffered much more damage from trees. The fill within the structure was also much deeper and almost entirely free of stones and finds. The nature of the fill suggests that these were garden soils. The finds of two buttons (Find 99) could easily be accounted as an accidental loss from working the plot. Although not within the wooded area, the structure in Trench 7 was unfortunately

the least well preserved. Structure A9 was only about 4.6m2 and there had been speculation about it being a tollbooth given its position overlooking the bridge. While this could still be the case the structure was in such bad condition that little can actually be said about it. The walls could only be made out as areas slightly denser with stone, and although some edges did appear to be present these were fairly speculative. Inside, no floor layers were noted and the only find from the whole trench (9m²) was a single Neolithic thumb scraper.

A programme of post-excavation analysis has been proposed in order to learn more about the structures and the wider township. It is anticipated that some dating may be possible through finds analysis and potentially scientific dating, although this is inhibited by the inaccuracy of carbon dating for periods following the industrial revolution.

Archive: NRHE and Highland HER (intended) Funder: Historic Environment Scotland

Lynne McKeggie – Highland Archaeology Services

(Source: DES Volume 23)