Skye, General

SKYE

(An t-Eilean Sgitheanach - winged isle) Celebrated for the sheer, physical challenge and drama of its landscape, Skye is not greatly appreciated for its buildings. Yet evidence of structures dating back to Pictish times litters the depopulated glens and headlands, providing a vital material dimension to a culture vividly chronicled by bards, musicians, diarists and historians. Their stones have witnessed some of the most stirring events in Hebridean history. Two rival clans attained superiority here following Norse domination. The Macleods of Dunvegan descend from the 13 th century Norse King Olav of Man and the North Isles, whose grandson, Tormod, ruled territories in Harris and Skye from c.12 80 from his headquarters at Dunvegan. The Macleod fortunes waxed and waned in fulfilment of an old prophecy; between the late 18th and early 20th centuries, most of their ancestral territories had to be sold. The Macdonalds of the Isles and Sleat are one of the principal branches of Clan Donald, which descends from Somerled of the ancient Clann Cholla. They take their patronymic of Clann Ùisdein from their first chief, Hugh (d.14 98), son of the Earl of Ross, upon whom were conferred the lands of Sleat and parts of the Outer Hebrides in 14 69. Following forfeiture of the Lordship of the Isles in 14 93, these were annexed and became subordinate to the Crown, but Royal charters were later granted to the Macdonalds. The chiefs were the focus of a paternalistic society, surrounding themselves with a retinue of bards and musicians. They displayed their military prowess in perpetual feuds over vast tracts of inhospitable territory (the last battle between the Macdonalds and the Macleods took place at Coire na Creiche in 1601), and presided over impregnable strongholds. Dunvegan Castle is still the home of the Macleods after more than 800 years. By contrast, successive seats of the Macdonalds of Skye have been reduced to gaping ruins. The significance of the sea as a principal thoroughfare until the 19th century is emphasised by the littoral settlement pattern of Skye. Though rich in limestone, marble and granite, hardly a slated house was to be seen here in 1770, and few were limemortared. The majority occupied primitivelooking thatched dwellings, with rubble (often bonded with mud) slowly replacing turf as the principal building material. The 'gentry houses' of Skye - many of which survive - are a unique breed in an architectural style that is simultaneously rustic and 'polite'. A combination of local craftsmen, and, where necessary, imported skills and timber, produced houses that were unpretentious, yet responsive to classical influences. Before the 18th century, very few had more than one floor, but the standard format that evolved was of two storeys (with garret) and three, sometimes five (but rarely four) bays; thick walls, steep roofs and small windows gave them an old fashioned appearance. By the 1830s, most had been improved to accommodate a new breed of gentleman farmer. Though never extravagant, some have internal finishes of considerable quality. Today, a characteristic feature of the landscape is the post-clearance housing that replaced the traditional Hebridean thatched dwelling, funded by the Department of Agriculture. Many of these 'improved cottages' are simple one-and-threequarter- storey variations on the standard form of the Highland tacksman's house, utilizing tin and other materials at hand in a truly vernacular tradition. They lie scattered across the landscape in a pattern familiar to crofting townships, only rarely displaying the cohesion of a Lowland village. Recent decades have witnessed the propagation of a rash of modern kit houses designed for flat, suburban sites, their form and materials alien to the geography and building traditions of the islands.

Taken from "Western Seaboard: An Illustrated Architectural Guide", by Mary Miers, 20082007. Published by the Rutland Press http://www.rias.org.uk

NG43SE 19 45656 33694 (Centred)

Skye, General, Macdonald Estate.

EXTERNAL REFERENCE:

National Archives of Scotland:

Factor's and Estate Accounts.

These mainly concern maintenance, water supply and plumber work of Ecclesiastic and Domestic buildings, Farms and Farm steadings.

1890-1895 GD 221/59/3-7

Valuation for insurance, 1908.

Tormore House 2500 pounds

Isleornsay Hotel 1300 pounds

Kinloch Lodge 3000 pounds GD 221/133/3.

James Ferguson's account of work omitted to be charged in account for building under Mr Gillespie's charge (1801-1812).

It includes payments due for the Family Burial Place at Kilmore, Kilmuir Manse and wings, Lochmaddy House and additions to the House of Tormore.

Masons, joiners, quarries, labourers and smiths listed at the end of the account.

1818 GD 221/49/1

Abstract of Entailed Improvements executed by the Rt. Hon. Alexander Wentworth, Lord Macdonald.

James Gillespie, Architect, certified 'that the whole amount thereof was actually expended' 1801-1814

1829 GD 221/43/42

Building Accounts.

Statement of money received and distursed by the Chamberlain of Skye. Includes building under James Gillespie, Architect. 1808-1814

1808-1814 GD 221/40/99

Expense of building.

Account of expenditure by Lord Macdonald on Public Buildings 1800-1814.

'Rendered by Mr (James) Gillespie, (Architect), and a certificate given by him hereto and sent to Anderson and Shepherd, Inverness in 1815'.

Amount stated: 8329.12.0

1815 GD 221/28/1 and 2.

James Ferguson's account of articles not applicable to the buildings under Mr Gillespie's charge. It is made out by James Ferguson in 1818 from the original vouchers and cover accounts from James Gillespie, Architect, (13) John Campbell, W.S (4) and the Chamberlain of Uist (4)

1818 GD 221/49/2

Expense of building.

Document certifies that money was actually spent as given in the accounts of 1809.

1810 GD 221/73/4

Expense of building.

'Account of Parochial Buildings in Skye'.

Includes: Snizort Church and Manse.

Kilmuir Church and Manse.

Sleat Manse

Kilmaluag and Kilmuir Schoolhouses.

The account amounts to 7395.8.3 3/4

1813 GD 221/68/25

Building Accounts.

James GIllespie, Architect.

His accounts include: Armadale House.

Sleat Manse

Broadford Inn

Tormore - addition

Gortencraig - Mrs Campbell's House

Strath Church - repairs

Mugstead House - repairs

Knock House - repairs

Kinloch House - repairs

Kyleakin Fishing House

Kilmuir Church.

1813 and 1814. GD 221/78/1 and 2.

Building.

Letter James Gillespie, Architect, to John Campbell, W.S.

He notes works formerly begun and finished, 1803.

Includes: Manse of Snizort.

Kilmaluag School.

The House of Tormore - repairs.

Small additional buildings at Mugstead.

2 'excellent village houses at Portree'.

1803 GD 221/91

Building

Building to be carried out in 1803.

Offices in Armadale.

Village houses at Portree for Mr Gillespie's workmen.

Sconser Inn.

Mugshot (Monkstadt) - repairs.

1803 GD 221/73/8

Valuation of buildings for Insurance.

Armadale House and furniture - 500 pounds

Kingsburgh House and office houses - 600 pounds

House of Mugstot - 400 pounds

Lord Macdonald's proportion of Snizort Manse - 500 pounds

Inn at Broadford - 400 pounds

Inn at Sconser - 400 pounds

1806 GD 221/73/9

Expense of building.

Statement of works proceeded in 1800 and finished 1801.

Includes: Snizort Church

Armadale House - repairs and alterations

Various cottages.

1802 GD 221/73/5

Expense of building.

Statement of work begun, money spent, and money required.

Includes: Snizort Manse, addition and repairs.

Kilrea Inn.

Milns.

Memoradum from James Gillespie, Architect, repeats this statement.

1802 GD 221/73/5 and 10.

Expense of building.

Document certifies that #1423. 8. 4 3/4 as in accounts of 1803 was actually spent.

1803. GD 221/73/7.

Payments to Architect and Surveyor.

Abstract of Lord MacDonald's Income and Expenditure.

Payments to Architect and to Mineral and Agricultural Surveyor.

1799 #336.15.1.

1800 #970.3 .9.

1801 #629. 4. 2.

1795-1801. GD 221/40/52.

Account between Rt Hon. Lord Macdonald and John Campbell, W.S. his Agent and Cashier.

Includes payments for building the Chamberlain's House at Kingsburgh (1796) for building the Chamberlain's House at Valay, N. Uist, (1797-1799) and the 'Amount of Sums laid out on Buildings in Skye 1800-1805'.

1795-1805. GD 221/104.

Expense of building.

'Report of Expense laid out by Rt. Hon. Alexander, Lord MacDonald on buildings erecting and erected by him on the island of Skye under the direction of James Gillespie, (Architect) from 4th March - 11the October as extracted from the Day book'. Includes the prison at Portree. A

Snizort Church.

Th expense amounts to #1230.11.6.

1800 GD 221/73/1.

Payments to Thomas Thorburn, Builder, for building and repair work.

They include the building of a Church at Kilmuir and repairs to Armadale House, the House of Knock and the Inn at Portree.

Account between the Rt. Hon. Lord MacDonald and John Campbell W.S. his Agent and Cashier.

1797 and 1798. GD 221/124.

EXTERNAL REFERENCE:

Skye, McDonald Estates.

Scottish Record Office.

Photocopy of Inventory to Entailed Estates Papers in the SRO.

Skye, Aird House.

Scottish Record Office.

Ruinous condition of the House of Aird.

Capt. Macdougall, Chamberlain of Skye, reports on its decayed situation. He has advised that any timber should be used to support the house before the whole fabric collapses.

Extracts of letters from Capt. Macdougall of Lyndale.

1806. GD 221/68/35.

EXTERNAL REFERENCE:

Scottish Record Office.

Skye, Eyre Lodge.

Additions to Eyre Lodge.

Note of payments.

Macdonald estate Cash Book.

1909. GD 221/133/3.

Exact site uncertain at time of upgrade, 15.11.2000.

NMRS REFERENCE:

Glens, School and House.

Architect: Alexander Ross, I.C. July 15, 1875, rebuilt I.C. May 15 1884.