Mull, Torran Iochdarach

Reference (2 January 2003 - 30 June 2013)

Access to the estate map of 1819 has been crucial to the work. Other documentary evidence has been found in Pennyghael in the Past Historical Archive

Field Visit (2 January 2003 - 30 June 2013)

Using the 1819 estate map the site has been visited and explored on many occasions. Clearing began in 2011 and a measured survey was carried out in June 2013

Reference (2 January 2003 - 30 June 2013)

Access to the estate map of 1819 has been crucial to the work. Other documentary evidence has been found in Pennyghael in the Past Historical Archive

Field Visit (2 January 2003 - 30 June 2013)

Using the 1819 estate map the site has been visited and explored on many occasions. Clearing began in 2011 and a measured survey was carried out in June 2013

Field Visit (2 January 2013 - 30 June 2013)

NM 47207 24246 A survey was carried out, 2 January – 30 June 2013, of Torran Lochdarach, which is part of the ancient farm of Torrans. Sometime before 1509 the farm was split into three: Torranbeg, Torran Uachdarach and Torran Lochdarach (Little, Upper and Lower Torran). Extensive dry stone dykes were built, one of which bisects the township. The buildings closest to this dyke have been robbed. Those at a greater distance retain most of their tumbled stonework. All the buildings were of dry stone, rubble construction, with rounded corners externally and squared corners internally. They have 0.7–0.9m wide walls.

House TOR 4.3.1 On the NW side of a modern forestry fence are the remains of a building measuring c10m x 4m, with either an outshot or an internal division 2.5m from the W end. Two to three courses of stone survive in most sections.

TOR 4.3.2-5 Two springs, the remains of a dyke and unidentified structures were located in this area.

TOR 4.3.6-11 This group of six buildings and one enclosure, situated on high ground, is separated from the remainder of the township by a dry stone dyke, which post dates the township. The majority of the stone from these structures may have been used to construct the dyke.

TOR 4.3.12-26 This area constitutes the main part of the settlement, and contains ten buildings, the majority of which were probably houses. Three enclosures and the remains of several unidentifiable structures were also recorded.

TOR 4.3.27-30 This group of three buildings and one enclosure lies to the S of a small mound. The buildings have been robbed and the 0.8–0.9m wide walls can only be seen in a few locations. Running SW–NE below these buildings, and skirting the stream and adjacent boggy ground, are the remains of a stone dyke.

Additional structures Three buildings are shown to the W of an enclosure (TOR4.3.26) on an estate map of 1819. No trace of these buildings now remains.

Archive: RCAHMS and PPHA

Members of Pennyghael in the Past Historical Archive, 2013

(Source: DES)

Srp Note (12 March 2015)

Scotland's Rural Past (SRP)

Torran Iochdarach is part of the ancient farm of Torrans, lying on the south side of Loch Scridain, between the equally ancient lands of Killunaig and Beach. It is part of the area named Brolos / Brolass, traditionally held by the MacLeans of Duart.

Sometime before 1509, the farm of Torrans was divided into three separate farms; Torranbeg, Torran Uachdarach and Torran Iochdarach – Little, Upper and Lower Torrans (See Exchequer Rolls of Scotland 13, 214). Of these, the pennyland of ‘Torrinichtrache’ is listed among the Abbot of Iona’s lands in the rental of the abbacy dated 1561, ‘in Brolos ane pennie land, callit Torrinichtrache’. It is not known why only this farm of the three was used by the Abbey.

MacLeans of Duart occupied the Abbey lands of Brolos and following the charter of 1587 granted by James VI, paid an annual rent to the Crown. (Collectanea de Rebus Albanicus 161-79)

When the Macleans of Duart fell into debt in the early 17th century, their principal creditor was the Marquis of Argyll and during this century there were recurring hostilities between the two factions. When the Campbells of Argyll finally won in 1679, the damage done to the estates by warfare could be clearly seen in the rental of that year. ‘Torranbeg’, Torranovachtrich’ and ‘Torranichtrich’ paid only £66.13.4 compared with £80 in 1672.

During the eighteenth century, it seems that the tacksman lived at Torranbeg and worked this farm in conjunction with Torranuachtrach (Upper Torrans). Torranichtrach (Lower Torrans) was farmed separately. Thus in the 1779 census of Inhabitants of the Argyll Estate, 11 households are mentioned, 7 of which were inhabited by tenants.

The Macleans of Pennycross, who had purchased the farms and adjacent lands in the early 1800s, were forced, by 1815, to sell again. The three farms of Torrans were offered for sale by public roup (Caledonian Mercury Jan 25, 1816) and finally sold to William MacGillivray of Montreal in 1819. For this sale, Langlands prepared a map of the area (now in private hands) showing the extent of the three farms with their arable fields, grazing lands and shielings.

In 1824, following the death of William MacGillivray, the united farms of Torranbeg and Torrenuachdrach were to be let. Torrenichtrach was still being farmed separately. At this time the farms are described as having both arable and pasture land.

Eight households are mentioned in the census of 1841, but by 1851 Upper and Lower Torrans are no longer mentioned by name, the whole farm being designated ‘Torrans’. No tenants are mentioned, but the resident in Torrans Farm is a farmer of 2000 acres of pasture land, employing 13 labourers. The sheep have come to Torrans.

A police report dated 30th March 1863 mentions a pauper named Rachel Bell or McMillan who was living at or near Torran Iochdarach (Tobermory Procurator Fiscal Files -1863 – 37) but by this time the settlement must have been losing its identity. There is a suggestion that the row of houses built at Goirtean Driseach and locally known as ‘Tolls’, was built to re-house remaining inhabitants of Torran Iochdarach.

Certainly, when the extensive drystone dykes were built across the Torran Farm lands round about 1850, much of this settlement was robbed out.

General note on all buildings

The buildings closest to the dry stone dyke bisecting the site have been robbed out of all the useful stone, leaving only very large and very small stones behind. Those at a greater distance retain most of their stonework, but as tumble.

All buildings were of dry-stone, random-rubble construction, with rounded corners externally and squared corners internally. The thickness of the walls varies between 0.7m and 0.9m.

House TOR 4.3.1

On the NW side of a modern forestry fence are remains of a building measuring c10m x 4m overall, with either an outshot or an internal division 2.5m from the W end. Two to three courses of stone survive in most sections. The interior is littered with tumble and there may have been a more recent lamb pen in the NE corner. The entrance is 2m from the NE end of the N wall and is 1 m wide. It is the most northerly of the buildings of this township, and, together with TOR4.3.3, is isolated from the remainder of the settlement. There is no obvious reason for this isolation.

Spring TOR4.3.2

The spring can still be found, with its stream flowing N, past TOR3.4.1.

Structure TOR4.3.3

On the S side of the forestry fence and c6-7m from TOR4.3.1 are the vestigial remains of a structure of which only a few stones survive to indicate the line of the walls. It is aligned NS and may have been up to 10m in length, with a possible outshot at the N end. This structure may have been a house, but does not appear on the estate map of 1819.

Dyke TOR4.3.4

A short length of dyke is drawn on the estate map of 1819, but only a few large boulders are still visible. It runs to the SW of TOR4.3.3 starting from near the source of the spring in the NW. It appears to meet another short length of dyke linked to TOR4.3.3 at NM47209 24342 and then continues to the foot of an outcrop to the SE. 47207 24330 .

Spring TOR4.3.5

The source appears to be protected by boulders. A small stream flows N from this point.

TOR 4.3.6-11

This group of six buildings and one enclosure, on higher ground, appear to be separated from the remainder of the township simply because a later dry stone dyke of considerable size bisects the site, leaving this group the only one on the W side. Little stone of any size remains. It was presumably used in the construction of the dyke running close by in a N-S direction.

Site of two buildings TOR4.3.7 and enclosure TOR4.3.6

What appears to be two buildings are recorded on the estate map of 1819 at this point, but all that can be seen now is a heap of small stones approx. 12m to the N of TOR4.3.8. Similarly the exact position of enclosure TOR4.3.6 marked on the map, can only be surmised by looking at the vegetation. There is a patch of bracken infested land, with ragwort and foxgloves, which corresponds to the marked enclosure on the map, beyond which is rough grassland. There is no recognisable edge to this area which is very roughly 11m square, though the N & E sides may be indistinctly defined as banks. Fragments of 19th century glazed pottery were found in molehills at the NE corner.

Building TOR4.3.8

Approximately 12m to the S of the stone heap (TOR4.3.7) are the footings of a building measuring 10.3m x 5.5m.

House TOR4.3.9

Some 4m E of TOR.4.3.11 are the turf-covered remains of a house measuring 10.4m x 5.4m. The walls appear as a series of mounds up to 1m in height but very little stone is visible.

House TOR4.3.10

All that remains of this building is a tumbled mass of smallish stones and footings half buried under turf. Accurate measurement is difficult because of the scatter of tumble, but the house is approx. 8m x 5m with the S end being built into the slope.

House TOR4.3.11

3m to the S of TOR4.3.10 is a house measuring 8.1m x 6.5m, with an outshot at the N end measuring 5.9m x 4.0m. Only the footings remain, and these are turf-covered, but the thickness of the walls can be seen in places to have been 0.9m. The site of the entrance can no longer be seen. (or internal partition)

TOR4.3.12 Enclosure

On a platform above a bluff immediately W of TOR4.3.13 are the remains of two dry stone dykes, forming an enclosure with a cliff on the W side and a drop to lower ground on the E side. The dyke on the N side of the platform still has one course of stones in place. The one on the S side has only one or two very large boulders in situ.

Building TOR4.3.9.13

Most of the tumbled stone appears to have been left where it fell in this building, which measures 8.8m x 5.1m. The entrance was possibly in the S wall. From the SW corner a wall continues to the edge of the low cliff at the back of the building. This is the only building on the site to be completely filled with dog’s mercury in summer time.

Structure TOR4.3.14

Although this structure is clearly marked on the 1819 estate map, there is little to show for it now. It appears to have used the cliff face as the back and S wall and there is a suggestion of footings on the E side. The approximate dimensions are 13m x 10m. Its positioning suggests that it may have been associated with TOR4.3.9, perhaps as a byre.

House TOR4.3.15

This house is built into the hillside at the E end and stands on a substantial platform at the W end. The E wall stands to a height of approx. 0.8m but the remainder of the walls are only knee high The entrance appears to be in the N wall

House TOR4.3.16

Just 5m to the W of TOR4.3.15, this building measures 7.2m x 5.1m, and has walls 0.8m thick. At the NE end three courses of stone remain but the rest is more broken down and turf covered. The entrance appears to be in the N wall.

House and building TOR4.3.17a&b

House TOR4.3.17a

The building measures 8.9m x 5.3m with an entrance in the S wall and another possible entrance opposite. The walls are 0.9m thick and although broken down to knee height, most of the tumble seems to be lying where it fell. At the W end of the building is an outshot, measuring 5.6m x 3.2m. This too is full of tumbled stone.

Building TOR4.3.17b

The building lies at right angles and close to the SE corner of TOR4.3.17a and measures 7.2m x 4.6m. Its N wall projects 1m beyond the back wall of TOR4.3.17a. It may also abut this building, but there is so much tumble that it is not possible to tell without extensive clearing.

Building TOR4.3.18

The building lies immediately to the N of enclosure TOR4.3.19 and measures c7m x 4m. The remaining 2-3 courses are now moss- covered mounds and there is a possible entrance in the E wall. A good deal of tumble lies both inside and out.

Enclosure TOR4.3.19

Close by the S end of House TOR4.3.18, this enclosure measures approx. 19m x 17m. It is shaped like the letter D, with the curved side facing E. The remains of the walls are waist high and turf covered. There appears to be an entrance 2.4m wide towards the E end of the S wall. Between this entrance and the W end of the S wall are remains of further walls indicating at least one other structure, the area measures 10.2m x 4.0m. On the E side of the entrance more tumbled stone may indicate another small structure, or the continuation of the enclosure wall.

House TOR4.3.20

This house is attached to the SE corner of enclosure TOR4.3.19 and measures 9.5m x 5.3m. There is a large pile of small stones in the NW corner and there was possibly a division internally. An outshot at the S end measures 5.5m x 4.5m. Just to the E of the building is a dip in the ground, measuring 6m x 4m and now infilled and boggy, which may have been a pond.

Possible structure TOR4.3.21

Parallel with and just to the N of TOR4.3.22 are the indistinct outlines of what may have been a building platform.

Building TOR4.3.22

The W end of this building (nearest the later drystone dyke) has entirely disappeared – not even footings remain above ground, so that without excavation the measurement can only be surmised at 9.8m x 6.1m. Of the remainder, only the footings can be seen, with an entrance in the S wall 3m from the E end.

Enclosure TOR4.3.23

This large enclosure, measuring 25.8m x 21m, lies to the S of the rocky outcrop separating it from enclosure TOR4.3.19. It has been built up on the E side, beyond which there is a boggy ground. The walls of this enclosure have been robbed out almost entirely.

Structure TOR4.3.24

All that remains of this structure are two large boulders at the N end and one at the S end. All other stone has been removed. The outline is very indistinct.

Structure TOR4.3.25

Several large boulders mark the outline of the SW corner of this structure. All other stone has been removed.

Enclosure TOR4.3.26

This enclosure lies to the S of enclosure TOR4.3.23, measures 17m x 14.2m and has a narrow entrance on the N side. Interestingly, this enclosure is filled with lush grass, whereas the other two (TOR4.3.19 & 23) have a mixture of vegetation, including bluebells, foxgloves and a certain amount of bracken. This however, may be due to later use by grazing cattle.

TOR4.3. 27 to 30

This group of three buildings and one enclosure, only one of which is shown on OS Explorer 373, 1 : 2500 (2002), lies to the S of a small mound, dividing them from the main part of the settlement. The land slopes gently NW to SE towards a boggy area and small stream and the buildings are scarped into this slope. They lie only 12m from the field dyke which bisects the site, and much of the stone has been re-used in this dyke. All the buildings are of dry-stone random rubble construction, with well-rounded corners externally.

Each building has been robbed out to a greater or lesser extent, leaving only the footings of very large stones, and a great deal of small infilling stone. The thickness of the walls, 0.8m or 0.9m, can now only be seen in isolated spots, the remainder being slumped up to 2m. Measurements are external except where indicated.

Running SW to NE below these buildings and skirting the stream and adjacent boggy ground are the odd remains of a stone dyke. This is shown in the Estate Map of 1819.

Enclosure TOR4.3.27

Lying to the E of this group and abutting the EW dyke is a small rectangular enclosure, perhaps an animal pen, measuring ………….. with an internal division. It is largely buried in peat and waterlogged turf.

Building TOR4.3. 28

This is the largest of the three buildings, measuring 11.1m x 4.8m. It may have been divided into three sections, as there are visible remains of two dividing walls, 0.7m thick, adjacent to the SW wall. The SE section of the building is 2.6m in length, the middle section 1.6m and the NW section 3.8m long. There is a lamb pen in the NE corner of the building, oval in shape, measuring 1.1m x 0.8m internally. It is now 0.9m high on the W side and only 0.45m high on the E. A possible entrance lies off-centre on the NE wall. The tumble in this building is widely spread, both inside and outside, indicating that it has been picked over, to select the required building stone for the “new” dyke and the lamb pen. There is some evidence of a building platform on the NE and SE sides, where the land slopes down towards the bog.

Byre TOR4.3.29

There is a 5.7m gap between building TOR4.3.28 and this smaller building, which measures 6m x 4.5m. The thickness of the walls is approx. 0.8m but there is little stone left except in a substantial lamb pen in the NW corner. In the NE corner a large block of natural rock, of which 1.4m x 0.3m is now visible, has been incorporated next to the wall and could have been used as a shelf. There is now no evidence of an entrance.

Between the SE wall and the stream are two large blocks of stone, seeming to create a channel into the bog. This may have been a drain from the byre. Remains of the stone dyke, which had been following the stream SW to NE begins again to the NW of the drainage area and is visible in patches to the NE.

Building TOR4.3.30

5.3m to the SW is the final building in this group which measures 7.9m x 5m. A platform up to 1.6m wide skirts the NE and SE walls. There is the suggestion of an entrance in the NE wall approximately 2.4m from the NE corner. At the SE corner an extra large footing stone, below the level of the first course of stone protrudes from the boggy ground. This building is closest to the later dyke bisecting the site and has been most heavily robbed out. There is little tumble remaining.

Running SW to NE, adjacent to the stream are the remains of the stone dyke, which ends at the SW corner of this building.

Additional structures

On the estate map of 1819, three buildings are shown to the W of enclosure TOR4.3.26. They appear to have been only 5m or so from the ‘new’ dyke and no trace of them now remains. In fact, the dyke appears to have been built across the site of one of them.

According to the same map, there were no structures on the untilled land between structures 4-7 and structures 8-15. However, at certain times of the year, when the vegetation is low and when the weather is dry, it is possible to pick out depressions and outlines of what may well have been earlier structures. These have not been investigated further.