Cove Harbour, Tidal Cave

NT77SE 59.07 c. 78395 71702)

Cave [NAT] (at NT 78395 71702)

OS 1;2500 map, 1969.

Tidal Cave. In addition to the works connected with the harbour projects, the inlet contains an interesting tidal cave, which deserves to be put on record. The cave opens just N of the N end of the beach, and, although clearly of natural origin, has evidently been adapted as an underground berth for boats - a precursor, as it were, of the bomb-proof U-boat pen. It is 21ft [6.4m] long, tapering internally; the mouth is 12ft 6ins [3.8m] wide by about 14ft [4.3m] high. The sea enters it at every high tide, and the mouth is fully exposed to easterly seas driving in from the harbour-entrance; the soft sandstone walls are thus very heavily weathered, and the traces of human work are consequently much smoothed off. However, it is possible to point, on the right-hand side, to a kind of irregular ledge, formed some 5ft [1.5m] above the floor, by the running-together of a series of footholds similar to those on the cliff-face E of the South Pier, and at its outer end this ledge expands into a small shelf, measuring 3ft 6ins [1.1m] by 2ft [0.6m] on which is fixed an iron ring with a few links of stout chain attached. At the inner edge of the cave, four footholds mount to the level of the ledge, and on the left-hand side several more run back towards the entrance; associated with these latter is an aumbry-like recess 2ft 9ins [0.8m] wide, 1ft 5ins [0.4m] deep and 2ft 6ins [0.8m] high in front, suitable for holding a lantern. The incised initials that cover the walls of the cave all appear to be the work of fairly recent visitors. The footholds and aumbry differentiate this cave markedly from Tod Hole, a large cave 90yds E of the South Pier; this shows no sign of adaptation to human purposes, perhaps because access to it from the sea is obstructed by the Hollow Rock, which stands in front of its mouth.

The choice of such an awkward and dangerous berth, in preference to the adjoining smooth, shingly beach would suggest a desire for privacy; while provision for artificial lighting, if this is the correct explanation of the aumbry and shelf, may be further evidence of a shrinking from the public view. It is consequently tempting to suspect some relevance to Cove about the local smuggling trade in the New Statistical Account. One of these (1834), which relates to the next parish (Coldingham), mentions 'numerous caves and fissures, formerly the haunts of smugglers', some of which 'of considerable dimensions, excavated out of the solid rock, are inaccessible by land, and can only be approached at low water, and in the calmest weather. Their narrow entrances are completely blocked up by the rising tide, and a gentle breeze from the east speedily creates a dangerous surf.' The other (1835) states that the coast of Mordington partish (between Ayton and Berwick) 'exhibits a continued unbroken line of abrupt rocks, which contain some caverns that were much used by smugglers in foreign spirits before the erection of a Preventative Station at Burnmouth.'

A Graham 1966.