Cromarty Defences, North Sutor Battery, Hill Of Nigg, Carse Of Bayfield, Landward Defences

A project to characterise the quantity and quality of the Scottish resource of known surviving remains of the First World War. Carried out in partnership between Historic Scotland and RCAHMS.

The remains of this WWI trench system can be traced for a distance of just over 1km from a point in the E amongst a tangle of gorse (NH 84603 72429) to a point in the W where it peters out at the edge of a coniferous plantation (NH 83882 72392). The remains of a command post are situated close to the E end of the system and two (possibly three) small shelters are visible along its line. A separate trench, measuring 30m in length on a WNW and ESE orientation (NH 83739 72552 to NH 83711 72560), is situated in improved pasture 210m NW of the W end of the main trench.

The command post (NH 84525 72476) survives in rough pasture at the foot of a NW-facing scarp 85m WNW of the E terminus of the trench system. Rectangular on plan, it measures 6.5m from NW to SE by 5.4m within rush- and grass-grown earthen banks 2.3m thick and 0.3m high. There is no clear trace of an entrance.

The trench system comprises a firing trench with a parapet to the N. It has been laid out in straight lengths and roughly follows the 155m-175m OD contours on the N side of the hill. The most easterly length (NH 84603 72429 to 84639 72513) runs for a distance of 92m from SSW to NNE and its overlooks the coast about 260m to the ESE. There are three irregularly-spaced traverses along its length – designed to break up and diminish the effect of an artillery blast ricocheting along the trench and to prevent the enemy from firing along the trench for more than a few meters if the fighting became hand-to-hand. Where a profile was taken across the line in this length (NH 84619 72458) the parapet was little more than an outward facing scarp measuring 4.5m thick and 0.5m high, while the trench was 0.6m broad and 0.25m deep.

Beyond the last traverse in this section, the line of defence enters an area of improved pasture and for a distance of about 60m only the slight remains of the parapet remain visible. Shortly after entering the improved pasture its line turns sharply WNW to a point (NH 84603 72538) where traces of the trench can again be seen. Shallow quarrying to the SSW suggests that at least some the material for the continuing line of the parapet may have derived from this source.

In the next section, which runs roughly WNW for a distance of about 265m (to NH 84362 72576), both the trench and the parapet are visible, and there are six more irregularly spaced traverses. Where a profile was taken in this length (NH 84389 72569) the parapet measures 4.9m thick and 0.35m high, while the trench is 2.2m broad and 0.3m deep. At NH 84546 72554 erosion by a burn has revealed what may be the boulder foundation of the parapet.

To the W of this section the line of defence passes back into rough pasture and the trench is not visible for a distance of 200m (to NH 84184 72540). The parapet continues, however, continues uninterrupted first heading WNW then turning to the SW. In this length, at least two, possibly three, shelters survive behind the line. The most easterly (NH 84256 72583) is situated 3.5m behind the parapet and is rectangular on plan, measuring 2.9m from NNE to SSW by 2m within a grass-grown bank (1.5m thick and 0.2m high) on the NNE and a scoop into the natural slope elsewhere. The second shelter (NH 84235 72551) is situated 35m to the SW and 7m behind the line of the trench. Also rectangular on plan, it measures 3.3m from NE to SW by 2m transversely, its front on a low tump and is rear cut back into the rising ground on the SE. What may be a third shelter (NH 84207 72547) is situated immediately behind the parapet. It is less regular on plan, but measures 2.2m from NE to SW by 1.5m transversely.

In the next section (to NH 84075 72493) both the trench and the parapet are visible for a distance of 125m and there is only one traverse. The parapet then continues W unbroken, through wet ground for a distance of 125m (NH 83993 72484), only picking up the trench again after 84m (NH 83993 72484). Where a profile was taken across the line in this length (NH 83985 72485) the parapet measures 2.5m thick and 0.25m high, while the trench is 1.5m broad and 0.3m deep.

Beyond this point the trench continues for a distance of 128m, first heading W, then SW, the finally SSE (to NH 83899 72422). It is accompanied by a surviving parapet for most of the last 66m. There are two traverses in this length, both facing SW. Where a profile was taken across the line (NH 83880 72450) the parapet measures 2.4m thick and 0.2m high, while the trench is 1.9m broad and 0.2m deep. The next section of the line is no longer visible where its slight remains may have been subsumed in poorly drained ground. If so then some 25m of trench and parapet are missing at a point where they would have turned 90 degrees to the SW from a NW to SE. To the SW of this gap a 17m length of trench and parapet runs through trees from NH 83893 72404 to NH 83881 72392.

A completely separate section of the defences, again made up of a parapet on the NNE and a trench on the SSW measuring 30m in length, is situated in improved pasture 210m to the NE (NH 83739 72552 to NH 83710 72560). Where a profile was taken across this length (NH 83728 72553) the parapet measures 3.5m thick and 0.15m high, while the trench is 1.9m broad and 0.1m deep.

To the W of this last point recent vertical aerial photographs suggest that while nothing of the trench system is now visible in what are now arable fields, fragments may well survive in fields of permanent pasture. These were, however, not examined on the date of survey.

The trench system, fronted by an entanglement of barbed wire, is sketched upon a paper copy of the second edition of the OS 6-inch map (Ross and Cromarty 1907, Sheet LV) held in the National Archives at Kew, dated 14 July 1916 (WO78/4396). The map shows that the defences once extended over a distance of almost 4kms and were more complex on the lower slopes of the hill to the NW. The overall shape and disposition of the system described above is fairly accurately delineated on this sketch, but they are depicted between roughly 100m-200m N of their true position. The sketch also depicts support trenches joining at intervals and often roughly at right angles, which were not observed. However, the command post (together with a flag emphasising its presence) is shown on the sketch, linked by a telephone cable to Lower Bayfield (NH 81206 73939) about 3.6km to the NW. The map also shows another enclosure (c. NH 84455 72579) situated between the parapet and the barbed wire to its N of which no trace was observed on the date of visit.

Visited by HES, Survey and Recording (ATW, AKK), 31 May 2019