Archaeology Notes
Event ID 846574
Category Descriptive Accounts
Type Archaeology Notes
Permalink http://canmore.org.uk/event/846574
NT69NE 3 65554 99386
Lighthouse [NR]
OS 1:10,000 map, 1976.
For successor and present lighthouse (NT 65500 99364), see NT69NE 8.
In 1636, the building of a lighthouse on the Isle of May was entrusted to James Maxwell of Innerwick, Alexander Cunningham of Barns and John Cunningham his son, who was feuar of the island (Reg Magni Sig Reg Scot 1634-51).
The lower half still stands on the summit of a rocky hillock immediately E of the modern lighthouse. It is a tower, 24' 5" square and 20' high. Originally it was 40' high with provision on the top for a fire of coals (R Sibbald 1803). The present roof and battlement date from 1886.
The entrance and only window face S. Above the entrance is part of a pediment with the date 1636. In a frieze on the fireplace in the N wall are the initials AC.
RCAHMS 1933
The first plans were made to erect a lighthouse on the May in 1630, being much discussed before a Patent was granted to John Cunningham of Barnes and Charles Geddes to erect and keep a light, and to collect tolls from passing ships. A manuscript held in the National Library of Scotland details some of the May dues from 1640 to 1642, and is an unusual surviving record.
The structure that Cunningham and Geddes built still survives, although much reduced in height, and is the oldest lighthouse in Britain, with the exceptions of the mid 18th century beacon on Copeland Island (near Belfast), one or two late 17th century towers, notably on North Foreland, Kent, and one or two doubtful Medieval structures. The May tower is 24ft [7.3m] square on plan, and has stone walls 4ft [1.2m] thick. When built, it measured about 40ft [12.2m] in height, and must have resembled a Border pele tower. It then had three floors, the middle one being of wood and set between the stone-vaulted roof and the vaulted ceiling of the ground-floor room. After the truncation, the interior was battened and plastered, in places as much as 8ins [203mm] from the inner face of the wall; this finish was continued up into a vault. The space above is now inaccessible, and it is not known whether the stone vault survives. The stone newel stair opposite the entrance formerly gave access to the upper floors and roof, but has been blocked.
The old studded oak door has been rehung, but all the other woodwork, including the window dates from the 19th century. Above the door, there is a richly-carved stone panel (now much eroded), and above this there is a corniche. The panel contains a crest so weathered as to defy identification, but which appears to resemble an escutcheon supported by hands with a sun or glory underneath, and the date 1636. This appears unconnected with the builders. By contrast, the fireplace set opposite the entrance is typical of the early 17th century, being decorated with conventional scroll- and strap-work. In the middle is a shake-fork, the emblem of the Cunninghams, and flanking this are the initials AC, presumably for Alexander, John's father.
The original stone roof was protected by a parapet, and would have provided ample room for the fire-grate, which was set on a low stone platform. It would be necessary to tend and rake the fire from any quarter, and a small stock of coals would have to be kept to hand. At first, fuel was carried up the newel stair, but in the 18th century a davit or hoist (powered by a horse on the ground) was installed. The efficiency of the light inevitably varied with the weather, and an enormous quantity of fuel was used. Up to 400 tons were consumed in a year, and up to 3 tons are said to have been burnt in a single night. Living condition for the keeper and his family were hard, and in 1791 the keeper, his wife and five of his six children were found suffocated.
Following this, efforts were made to improve the light, but enclosing the coal fire in a glass lantern proved ineffective. The wrecks of the frigates Nymphen [Nymphe: NT77NW 8006 and NT77NE 8008] and Pallas [NT77NW 8007] in 1810, apparently in consequence of the island light being confused with limekilns on shore caused the Admiralty to bring pressure to bear on the Duke of Portland (then the owner). In 1814, he was required by Act of Parliament to sell the island to the Northern Lighthouse Board for the not-inconsiderable sum of £60,000. Robert Stevenson replaced it by a new lighthouse (NT69NE 8), adjacent to the W; this was completed in 1816. At the instigation of Sir Walter Scott, it was decided to preserve the lowest floor of the old light, and 'to ruin it a la pittoresque'.
D [B] Hague 1965.
A 17th century lighthouse as described above.
Surveyed at 1/10 560.
Visited by OS (JM) 1 October 1975.
Name: Isle of May I (1636)
Location: N56 11 W2 33 Firth of Forth, 12 miles N of Dunbar
Designed and built: Alexander Cunningham
Description: square parapetted stone tower, with coal grate on roof
Height of tower: 40ft (12m)
Manning: watched, keepers in permanent residence
Scotland's first lighthouse. Poor efficiency of the coal grate led to lighthouse and island being purchased by Northern Lighthouse Board, and replaced by present tower (NT69NE 8)
C Nicholson 1995.
