Field Visit
Date November 1908 - April 1913
Event ID 1088220
Category Recording
Type Field Visit
Permalink http://canmore.org.uk/event/1088220
45. Cockburnspath Church.
The village of Cockburnspath is situated some 7 miles to the south-east of Dunbar, and distant about 1 mile from the sea-coast. Originally the dwelling-houses appear to have been grouped around a market-square of which the old market cross still forms the central feature. The church, which stands near the south side of the square, has undergone several restorations. On plan it is a simple oblong measuring some 80 feet by 18 feet 3 inches over walls averaging 3 feet in thickness, and having a diagonal buttress with a single intake at each angle. There are also several indications of an early base-course. The interior of the church has been completely modernised, and the old walls have been pierced with new windows and doorways. Built into the wall immediately above the exterior of the south-eastern doorway is the pointed arch-head of a two-light window containing tracery of. the cusped geometrical type within a moulded label. The details indicate that a church existed on the present site in the 14th and 15th centuries, which in its turn probably succeeded a still earlier building. The tower (fig. 18 [SC1172956]), situated in the middle of the west gable, is the most interesting feature now remaining. It measures some 9 feet in diameter within walls averaging 1 foot 6 inches in thickness, and contains a wheel-staircase of stone. The total height measured from the level of the church floor to the upper coping is about 30 feet. It is divided into two unequal stages by a string-course a few feet above the apex level of the church roof. The lower stage is lighted by two narrow rectangular windows, while the upper part has several round-headed openings with semicircular depressions formed opposite each other in the centre of the jambs, thus recalling the cross-shaped loopholes of early castles. Unlike the masonry of the church, the tower walls have been built with rubble which has been covered with roughcast. The tower has been added to the 14th century west gable in the late 16th or early 17th century, and doubtless then terminated in a conical roof of timber and slates. Access is gained by a square-headed doorway entering from within the church to the wheel staircase, which is continued up to the level of the string-course. In the construction of the tower it is interesting to note that the binding effect of the stone steps has obviated the necessity of thick outer walls.
A small tomb-house, roofed with a pointed barrel vault, abuts against the east wall of the church, and is now used as a heating chamber. It is entered by a lintelled doorway formed in the centre of the east wall. The date 1614 is carved on the apex of the gable, surmounting which there is a stone, bearing a shield now much worn, charged with arms:-A chevron between two stars in chief and a crescent in base (for Arnot). On the dexter side of the shield the letter W is faintly discernible on the surface of the wall.*
Lying close to the north wall within the vault is a stone slab measuring 6 feet by 2 feet 6 inches, having a shield carved on the exposed surface charged with three escutcheons; above on a scroll is the motto SERVA JUGUM, and around, the letters D·I·H. (Hay).
A chapel and a hospital appear to have existed at Cockburnspath from early times. Robert chaplain of Colbrandspath is mentioned in 1255, but there seems to be some doubt as to the site of the church mentioned.
Sundial.
A sundial forming the terminal of the south-west buttress is of a remarkable type. The dial face slopes inwards and the sides are splayed towards a narrow necking where they join a chamfered base. The upper surface slopes in line with the pitch of the south half of the gable, having a semicircular hollow cut out of the centre. Below the west side a triangular-shaped arm juts out in a curious fashion. It has been suggested that the shadow cast from this projection on to the surface of the west gable may have been designed as a secondary sun-dial, but no indications of a dial face or figures now remain.
See Eccles. Arch., iii. p. 413 (plan and illus.); Cast. and Dom. Arch., v. p. 382 (illus.); Eccles. Soc., vol. ii. pt.. i. p. 178 (illus.); Ber. Nat. Club, 1890-91, p. 101 (illus.); ibid., 1896-98, p. 19; Antiquaries, xxiv. p. 181 (sun-dial illus.).
*‘Wil Arnote portionario de Coldbrandispeth’ witnessed a Charter at Edinburgh on 28th January 1607. Ber. Nat. Club, 1900, pp. 136- 162.
RCAHMS 1915, visited November 1908 and April 1913.
OS Map: Ber., i. SW.